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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Paul Rothfeldt, Tim Snyder, Craig Berkley Feb 06
Page Views: 1,272 total, 10/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the 5.8 wide crack to a stance behind the pedastel. Move up and left into the wide left leaning crack. A 4 and 4 1/2 camolot will protect the moves out of it. Exit the crack and move up and right to a bolt. Go straight up on sparse gear(tcus) and one more bolt to a run out 5.8 section. Step through this to reach a double bolt anchor. Either top out on the buttress or rap off on 2 ropes.

Location

Starts right of Space Monkey.

Protection

Mixed; gear and two bolts. Double-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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This is a excellent and stout fist crack capped by a nice but somewhat dirty face. Pro on the upper face is excellent and comes about every body length. For the crack I placed two #3 and #4 C4s, a #5 C4 and on the face above two of each #1 & #2 TCUs, and a single #1 C4. There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this route and a single 70m will get you down. Dec 21, 2015
Nice Job cleaning this one up. Really hard wide crack crux. Followed by a featured face. My rack for this route consists of full set of c3's, BD.3,BD.4,BD.5,BD2, 2 BD#3,BD4, and BD5. One thing I have been doing is firing the crux and belaying to avoid the somewhat dirty topout then traversing on a ledge to the left to get to the anchor above space monkey. Dec 17, 2012