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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Buddy Brasington, Les Duncan
Page Views: 1,081 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

P1: very thin, sequential face moves with the trickiest section near the 4th bolt at the top 5.10+. Belay at tree

P2: Great! Undercling to TCU's to 4 bolts and a bolted anchor. Nice hidden crimps and a high reach roof

Location

20 feet right of "5.8 Crack", begin at left leaning flakes down low to a crimpy face

Protection

4-5 bolts P1, 4 bolts P2 with tcu's intermixed

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I've always felt like the crux is at the first bolt. There is some pump that follows at the top. The first, third, and fourth bolts are tough to clip if you are short. Feb 21, 2011
Jeff Jenkins  
 
Tricky moves , hard 10 P1 but P2 is the best part. Dec 19, 2011
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
I skip the last bolt on the first pitch, finding it easier to climb out left. Makes for a bit of a run to the anchors, but whatever. Feb 23, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.10+
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.10+
High quality climb P2 is awesomely good and P1 is great too. Nov 10, 2013
Corey Flynn   USA
FYI Les Duncan should be cocredited on the FA of this one, as he and Buddy would always refer to it as "our route" whenever they took me climbing at the bald. Two of my favorite climbers, tricky first pitch Feb 24, 2015

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