Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Buddy Brasington, Les Duncan
Page Views: 1,214 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

P1: very thin, sequential face moves with the trickiest section near the 4th bolt at the top 5.10+. Belay at tree

P2: Great! Undercling to TCU's to 4 bolts and a bolted anchor. Nice hidden crimps and a high reach roof

Location

20 feet right of "5.8 Crack", begin at left leaning flakes down low to a crimpy face

Protection

4-5 bolts P1, 4 bolts P2 with tcu's intermixed

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I've always felt like the crux is at the first bolt. There is some pump that follows at the top. The first, third, and fourth bolts are tough to clip if you are short. Feb 21, 2011
Jeff Jenkins  
 
Tricky moves , hard 10 P1 but P2 is the best part. Dec 19, 2011
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
I skip the last bolt on the first pitch, finding it easier to climb out left. Makes for a bit of a run to the anchors, but whatever. Feb 23, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.10+
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.10+
High quality climb P2 is awesomely good and P1 is great too. Nov 10, 2013
Corey Flynn   USA
FYI Les Duncan should be cocredited on the FA of this one, as he and Buddy would always refer to it as "our route" whenever they took me climbing at the bald. Two of my favorite climbers, tricky first pitch Feb 24, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Low quality, irritating (even sandbagged) first pitch, but a cool second pitch. Feb 1, 2019
Amy Zakerski
Asheville, NC
  5.10d
Amy Zakerski   Asheville, NC
  5.10d
Amazing Climb! The first pitch is amazing, sustained 10+, and of the more well bolted sport climbs at the bald. The second pitch is mixed Trad/Sport, less difficult, and just as fun - absolutely worth it! This route is super interesting and one of my favorites at the bald! It's super lichen-y and a bit sharp so it could use some polishing (especially P2). With more use, I think it could be considered a classic. Feb 18, 2019