Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 937 total · 8/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Nov 25, 2009 with improvements by nbrown
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Start at thin right facing flake 10' left of Test Pilots. Move to a large horizontal opening and clip bolt. Make some bouldery moves to get to the second bolt. Clip a new bolt in the white horizontals. After third bolt move up and left through bulge placing gear. Move up and right to the Test Pilots anchor.

Location

10' left of Test Pilots

Protection

Draws, TCU's to #1 camalot. Rap from Test Pilot bolts.

Photos

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Bruce Burgess
  5.10c/d
Bruce Burgess  
  5.10c/d
Replacing these 20 year old bolts with some re-engineering had been on my to-do list for too long, so today the job got done. There are now three SS bolts with optional gear between the 2nd and 3rd. Mandatory gear placements ensue above where the climb merges with Copilots.

If you don't want to stick clip, a #4 Cam goes nicely in the first big slot. Not P/G rated anymore. Mar 2, 2013
Jon Lane
Asheville, NC
Jon Lane   Asheville, NC
nice Bruce! Just climbed it Thursday and had the best ascent of it yet! Love the section past the bolts. Mar 9, 2013
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Thanks for the improvement Bruce. Much more aesthetic and fun to climb in it's new form. Mar 12, 2013
Shannon Millsaps
  5.10c/d
Shannon Millsaps  
  5.10c/d
This route is so good. Steep to techy face back to some steeps and a slabby finish. Thanks for the re-engineering Bruce! Jan 18, 2014
Mike Reardon  
 
Great forearm pumper. After the third bolt, don't get sucked in to going too far left on the ledge for gear like I did- the horizontal rail does not offer great gear. Instead head straight up for a crimpy jug surrounded by white rock taking a blue TCU. Nov 9, 2015