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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 800 total, 8/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Nov 25, 2009 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start at thin right facing flake 10' left of Test Pilots. Move to a large horizontal opening and clip bolt. Make some bouldery moves to get to the second bolt. Clip a new bolt in the white horizontals. After third bolt move up and left through bulge placing gear. Move up and right to the Test Pilots anchor.

Location

10' left of Test Pilots

Protection

Draws, TCU's to #1 camalot. Rap from Test Pilot bolts.

Photos

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Mike Reardon  
 
Great forearm pumper. After the third bolt, don't get sucked in to going too far left on the ledge for gear like I did- the horizontal rail does not offer great gear. Instead head straight up for a crimpy jug surrounded by white rock taking a blue TCU. Nov 9, 2015
Shannon Millsaps
  5.10c/d
Shannon Millsaps  
  5.10c/d
This route is so good. Steep to techy face back to some steeps and a slabby finish. Thanks for the re-engineering Bruce! Jan 18, 2014
nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
Thanks for the improvement Bruce. Much more aesthetic and fun to climb in it's new form. Mar 12, 2013
jlane  
nice Bruce! Just climbed it Thursday and had the best ascent of it yet! Love the section past the bolts. Mar 9, 2013
Bruce Burgess
  5.10c/d
Bruce Burgess  
  5.10c/d
Replacing these 20 year old bolts with some re-engineering had been on my to-do list for too long, so today the job got done. There are now three SS bolts with optional gear between the 2nd and 3rd. Mandatory gear placements ensue above where the climb merges with Copilots.

If you don't want to stick clip, a #4 Cam goes nicely in the first big slot. Not P/G rated anymore. Mar 2, 2013