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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kris Kline
Page Views: 233 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hutchins on Jan 22, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Fun and slightly heady climbing. There are probably no moves harder than 5.9, but it might be dangerous for a climber who doesn't have 10- climbing and gear skills. Start in the gully/ramp left of Test Pilots and step off the slab to gain the thin crack/flake. Get good gear at the top of the feature and in high and right horizontal before moving right ~6'. Note, the traverse right is protectable, but effort needs to be taken to place the gear properly. At the end of the traverse pull up onto the slab where it seems most reasonable. Continue up to the overhanging wall and move right to the left side of the "arete". This section can be protected, but skill is needed. Proceed up the face on great gear and trend right to the Test Pilots anchor. An alternate 5.10 start that follows the flake all the way from the ground can be climbed for a little added spice and pump. The face climbing at the top is the original finish for Test Pilots, and the more recently added Rocket Science.

Location

Left of Test Pilots in the gully. Either boulder up the direct start to the flake/crack, or scramble up the slab to do the exposed step across to the wall (more common).

Protection

Small nuts, TCUs, Tricams (including black), mid-sized cams optional, and a few slings if single roping. Double roping not required, but can significantly reduce the spice factor at the start

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