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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mike Reardon, Gary Pisano June '11
Page Views: 932 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Jun 17, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description [Suggest Change]

Crux is getting past the one and only bolt. Stem the pillar, clip the bolt, and suction yourself onto the slab. Move left under the bolt and pull thin crimps to the rewarding ledge. take the right hand corner of the flake passing great gear the whole way up to the Weight and Balance Check anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

Climb the 5.8 crack, Weight and Balance Check P1 or the 5.7 corner just to the right. This route starts left of Weight and Balance Check in between the wall and the pillar.

Protection [Suggest Change]

1 bolt, Standard rack to 3"

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wes calkins  
 
This route is just ok. It really is just one move right at the bolt followed by some 5.6 climbing. Dec 17, 2012
Mike Reardon  
 
Agreed with Wes, a bit of a one move wonder. It is better done as one long pitch, combined with the 8 crack down below, this makes for a more worthwhile jaunt. Jan 6, 2013
Y'all put this up in June? That's pretty amazing. Jan 21, 2013

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