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Routes in Escape Buttress

Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Body Bag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead on Arrival S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Denied S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Information S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jug for Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Meet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motherload S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Escaping Death S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Presidents Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Requiem S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steel Graffiti S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twist and Shout S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Susan Wolfe, Tim Wolfe
Page Views: 378 total · 3/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Using underclings, reachy moves to small pockets and small-to-non-existent feet, get to the second bolt.

Use some fun holds on the top edge of the smooth area, and then start up through an increasingly overhanging section using pockets and crimps. This part is quite pumpy, and just when you’re sure you can’t hold on anymore, the pockets get smaller and less positive. After the last bolt haul yourself to easier terrain on some big edges and climb up another ten feet to the ledge with the chains.

This is a really fun climb. Even when Escape Buttress has been crowded I’ve never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).

Location

This route is located on a bulge about 50 feet before the west end of Escape Buttress proper and is one of three routes that you encounter on your left on the way to Escape.

This is the left-most of the three routes; note that the bolts for the right-most of the routes are hard to spot. Looking at the bulge described above there is a smoother, blank-appearing area about 20 feet up from the trail. This route starts on the left of the two bolts at the bottom of the smoother area.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors (shared with the route to the right).

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11c
The bottom choss is quite easy. Once you clip the first bolt the rock quality increases dramatically (following many hours of choss gardening reuqired to establish the line). The original finish went straight past the final bolt but I think it is a bit easier if you drift right and clip off left. A very quality line for the grade. Nov 28, 2012
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, UT
  5.11c
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, UT
  5.11c
Get on this route!!! Great moves through good rock, with two really fun crux sequences. I think it's a great route to try if you are getting into that grade range.
A little overkill on the bolting for the second half I think, but it doesn't detract from the quality of the route. Thanks for putting up such a good line Tim Wolfe! Apr 25, 2018

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