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Routes in Escape Buttress

Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Body Bag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead on Arrival S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Information S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jug for Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Meet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motherload S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Escaping Death S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Presidents Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Requiem S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steel Graffiti S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twist and Shout S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 27, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Start to the left of a ledge and haul on huge pockets to the first bolt. More pockets and edges to the second bolt, then it gets briefly thinner without pockets to the third. Big pockets to the fourth bolt and then the angle eases considerably to less than vertical through the fifth bolt and then the chains.

Important safety tip: Don't fall at the fifth bolt (although if you made it that far, you'd really have to be asleep to manage a fall).

If the climbing through the first four bolts were duplicated above this would be as good as Monkey Meet.

Location

Located on an indentation on the right side of the main Escape Buttress wall. This is the 8th route from the left on the main wall, or, alternatively, 4th from the right.

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos

Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10b
Easy onsight for a 10c. Felt definitely easier than a 10c though like maybe a 10a/b. Enough pockets to get through the 4 bolts then it gets easier with a long runout to the 5th bolt (don't slip and fall from here!) and then a moderate runout to the chains. Bomber pockets and the flake is solid. Nothing really special BUT if this were in Rock Canyon, climbers would be giving it 4 star ratings. May 25, 2009
Alec LaLonde
  5.10-
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10-
Probably more like 5.10a, when compared to Steel Graffiti anyway. It's pretty run out after the overhanging bit but not at all steep. Be careful. Jun 14, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
What Walt is trying to say is...he saw me onsight it so it can't be very hard. I certainly had more trouble with Steel Graffiti, but Denied is 10c in the Ruckman guide so that's what I put it in as. Jul 30, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
  5.10a
jtwalter   Orem, UT
  5.10a
This would be an easy onsight if you're comfortable with climbing on the rest of the routes on Escape Buttress. The crux is going above the 2nd bolt, just like all Escape routes. I didn't think this was any harder than Steel Graffiti, the 10b to the right of Twist and Shout. Jul 30, 2007