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Routes in Escape Buttress

Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Body Bag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead on Arrival S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Information S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jug for Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Meet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motherload S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Escaping Death S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Presidents Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Requiem S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steel Graffiti S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twist and Shout S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Susan Wolfe, Tim Wolfe, George Rosenthal
Page Views: 177 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Then, using pockets and sidepulls, get past the smooth area and continue through another six bolts. There are plenty of pockets and a jug always seems to appear just when you need it. Just before the last bolt the pockets and feet get scarcer; after the last bolt the angle eases and you climb 10 feet of easy terrain to a ledge with the chains.

This is a pretty fun climb and worth doing. Even when Escape Buttress has been crowded I’ve never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).

Location

This route is located on a bulge about 50 feet before the west end of Escape Buttress proper and is one of three routes that you encounter on your left on the way to Escape.

This is the middle of the three routes; note that the bolts for the right-most of the routes are hard to spot. Looking at the bulge described above there is a smoother, blank-appearing area about 20 feet up from the trail. This route starts on the right of the two bolts at the bottom of the smoother area.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors (shared with the route to the left).

Photos

Kurt Howes  
 
Wow Susan and Tim, I just did these two routes (10.b & 11.c) for the first time (feb '14) and thought they were completely excellent. We thought they were better than everything to the right on Escape (save maybe the 3 star 10.d). Crazy to think these wonderful routes were put up so recently. They must have cleaned up quite nicely by now because I have no complaints. Garret's route to the right was quite fun and good also. I HIGHLY recommend climbing these two on the left. Feb 15, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b
A fun route well worth doing that eventually (20 years later) might clean up with some action. It is amazing how much rock we had to peel off to get down to relatively solid rock. Rarely any line waiting to climb here and the holds probably are still sharp rather than slippery. Skip the rest you can find out right high up to get the full value of the original line. Nov 28, 2012
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
This route is worth climbing! Sep 24, 2010
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.10a
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
  5.10a
Watch out. A few feet right of the first bolt is the most gigantic pile of bat crap I have ever seen. It's a 4-5" tall mound that I almost took to be a handhold.

If you feel like there isn't anything to hold on to, try out the crappy looking pockets, you will find some surprising jugs and sidepulls. Oct 11, 2009