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Routes in Escape Buttress

Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Body Bag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead on Arrival S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Information S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jug for Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Meet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motherload S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Escaping Death S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Presidents Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Requiem S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steel Graffiti S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twist and Shout S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 941 total, 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 15, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A short, juggy climb up overhanging rock. Start on ledges and juggy sidepulls to the first bolt, then pockets to the second (including a nifty, smooth, white pocket lined with some sort of quartz-like deposit).

After the second bolt comes the crux. You can go right or left of the bolt. Choose wisely.

Location

Motherload is located near the right side of Escape Buttress. It is the first route left of the evergreen tree which is located at the right side of the wall. Alternatively, it is the ninth route from the left on the main wall.

Protection

5 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

SaraD
 
SaraD  
 
This route starts off pretty fun and easy with lots of holds, but getting to the third bolt is the crux. Tried going left (slopey slab with left hand) and right (lighter rock with a crimp for the right hand), but both ways still had a long straight arm reach to the bolt. Apr 18, 2016
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c
Fun route, hard pulling, but holds abound. A must do if in the area, short but sweet! Jul 26, 2012
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I just noticed that this route is in Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Utah at 5.10b/c. Since I'm sure he's much better at judging ratings than I, I changed this from 5.10a to 5.10b/c. Sep 3, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
This is in the Ruckman guide as 5.10 (no letter). I thought it was a bit harder than Twist and Shout and a bit easier than Jug for Joy. Aug 15, 2007