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Routes in Escape Buttress

Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Body Bag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead on Arrival S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Information S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jug for Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Meet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motherload S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Escaping Death S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Presidents Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Requiem S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steel Graffiti S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twist and Shout S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: James Garrett
Page Views: 155 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This is to the left of the main selection of Sport routes on Escape Buttress. It was first climbed about one week after the death of Steve Carruthers, hence the name and he should never be forgotten in the climbing lore of the Wasatch.

The route starts next to a scrubby tree that may still be there and immediately goes up and right past 9 bolts to some huge jugs to clean, fun edges. It ends on a little ledge with a rap station with one chain vertically above a fixed ring hanger.

Probably still needs to get cleaned up a bit which would come with more traffic. I think most people enjoy this pitch.Previously unreported...anyone do this route and not know what it was?

Immediately to the left are two Tim Wolfe routes that are 5.11ish. NED is certainly no harder than 5.10a, so if you are climbing that hard, you must be too far left or completely off route.

Protection

9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.10a
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
  5.10a
Some buddies and I spent some time cleaning this one up yesterday. There is still probably some loose stuff, but we got rid of a lot of it. Way jagged little crimps up top. I'm surprised I didn't bleed a little. Oct 11, 2009
Robert MacKinnon
  5.10a
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.10a
I agree that the climbing is pretty good (after the first three bolts). However because it is fairly dirty still and very sharp up higher I only give it one star. Nov 16, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Only the first bolt is easily visible from the ground when you are standing beneath the route (the bolt is above a good-sized roof)). Have faith, however, the bolts are there. Head up and right from the first bolt. Nov 7, 2007
First 3 bolts are on loose crappy rock. Doesn't come close to the quality of the 2 routes left of it. Jul 12, 2005
These are good routes and because they are not in the guidebook a lot of people never notice that they are there; the main Escape Buttress area will be crowded and no one will be on these; I always point these routes out to people and try to get more traffic on them. You do have to scramble up a bit through some easy choss to get to the real climbing, so it is easy not to notice them. The 10a is long, juggy and fun. The leftmost 11b/c is great;diverse climbing that keeps getting harder to the pumpy crux at the end. Jul 12, 2005