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Routes in Bush Dome

Beanie Babies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Camel, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chestwig T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kate's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lean on Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 250 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A loose choss-filled chimney with a gritty friction finish.

Start inside of the chimney near a small protectable crack. Move deeper into the chimney to get around a constriction (going outside may be possible). The rock quality here is extremely bad and there’s not good protection opportunities for a little bit. After the constriction there’s a small ledge where you can transition to an OK crack, or use wide chimney technique, to a large ledge. The second, short pitch ascends some terrible quality gritty friction (oxymoron?). You’ll probably have to clean off every feature before planting a foot. Oh, and there's only one placement opportunity, towards the start of the pitch.

Might be an ok route if it cleans up, a lot.

Location

About 50 feet right of ??, in the large inset. Scramble up to a platform with a couple of smaller, decent looking crack climbs. You won’t be climbing those. Instead, look to the left for a dirty, dingy, choss-filled chimney between the wall and a pillar. That’s it.

Protection

Your back and legs.

Small to 2”. A couple of 3s or 4s would be nice for the anchor at P1, but it can be reasonably protected with 1s and 2s.

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