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Routes in Bush Dome
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Ambush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Beanie Babies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Camel, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Chestwig T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kate's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lean on Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slaughter the Lamb T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.02889, -116.18371 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 971 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Kelly on Oct 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A loose choss-filled chimney with a gritty friction finish.
Start inside of the chimney near a small protectable crack. Move deeper into the chimney to get around a constriction (going outside may be possible). The rock quality here is extremely bad and there’s not good protection opportunities for a little bit. After the constriction there’s a small ledge where you can transition to an OK crack, or use wide chimney technique, to a large ledge. The second, short pitch ascends some terrible quality gritty friction (oxymoron?). You’ll probably have to clean off every feature before planting a foot. Oh, and there's only one placement opportunity, towards the start of the pitch.
Might be an ok route if it cleans up, a lot.
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