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Routes in Bush Dome

Beanie Babies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Camel, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chestwig T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kate's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lean on Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans, Marge Floyd, Jim Angione, Eric Charlton & Deanne Grey, September 1986
Page Views: 429 total · 3/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 11, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route is on "Bush Dome" which is right and behind "Mel's Diner". Park at the turnout at "Roadside Rock", and walk a short distance west to the formations. "Kate's Bush" is on the right. You'll see a ledge about 25 feet above. Climb the crack system that takes you to the left side of the ledge. It is probably best to belay here. Then climb the obvious crack above. The lower crack is somewhat grainy and awkward(5.8), and the upper crack is a 5.7- joy.


Standard rack


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
After passing on Chestwig, we did this route as a consolation prize. Woody's comments are spot on. Grainy first half, OK second half. A standard rack + some longs slings will do. Walk off to the climber's left. Worth the tick, but I won't be back. Apr 13, 2007
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
Kate needs to clean her bush.

Will be a good route once the choss gets cleaned out. Ok crack. Not sure where the "PG-13" comes from. Oct 29, 2007
Palm Desert, CA
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
The first bit gave me something to think about (like "why do I always get stuck on the sandbags?"). It was a good route. The second pitch was outstanding. Great moves with solid protection - would give this route three stars if it weren't for the first pitch. Agreed that pg13 confuses me a bit too (maybe the walk down? - be mindful when descending this route). Thought protection was solid on both pitches. Enjoyed this one... a bit off the beaten path, but worthwhile for sure. Apr 12, 2009
Palm Desert, CA
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
I give the second pitch a little more props... I thought it was a good time. Of course, I didn't get that lead... I had the DISpleasure of the first pitch - which grainy is a good assessment. Not even close to the fun as P2. Not a "must do" but good fun on a busy day. Oct 18, 2009
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
doable in one long pitch. thought the hardest move was just above the starting ledge. above the 2nd pitch ledge, possible to chimney up quite a ways before needing to place the next piece. the higher that next piece goes in, the less rope drag Mar 24, 2014
As of Feb 2016 there is a rappel anchor to climber's left of where the route ends. Feb 21, 2016

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