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Routes in Bush Dome

Beanie Babies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Camel, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chestwig T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kate's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lean on Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Marge Floyd, Jim Angione, Scott Gordon, Eric Charlton, and Todd Gordon, September 1986
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jun 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This aesthetic and exciting climb follows a very thin crack with some face moves; shaded location.

Location

an obvious thin crack on the left side of the crag

Protection

standard rack, mostly thin pieces

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
great climb, engaging, exciting. racked smallest Ballnutz, single black and blue Aliens, doubles in green Aliens up to red BD #1, plus extra third yellow and red Aliens, to do in one long pitch Mar 24, 2014
sonja  
The gear is actually fine. The pin protects the crux moves and beyond (pin looks good up close). Definitely some loose/crumbly rock on occasion. Not a straightforward first pitch in my opinion. Feb 23, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Hiked out to do this route, but passed after checking it out.

The gear looked marginal and the rock was very grainy. The rusted pin didn't inspire much confidence either. Perhaps the gear is better than appears from the ground. We did Kate's Bush to the right instead.

Anyone know if the gear is better than it looks? Apr 13, 2007

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