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Routes in Northwest Face

Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edgeumacated T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Warren Harding and Frank de Saussure, 1954
Page Views: 12,615 total, 102/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Sep 25, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.

P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.

P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.

Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).

Location

The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.

Protection

Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.

Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary)
set of nuts
long slings
Hi Everybody!
I climber Norhwest book on Aug 12th and lost my black Rayban sunglasses on the route.
Please let me know if you found them.
My email is natiefilm@gmail.com
Thank you, Friends! Aug 26, 2017
We were forced to leave a #0.75 BD friend on the first pitch, just at the end of the big flake, when it was pushed in by the rope, 9 October. If anybody does manage to reclaim it, please give me a shout.

A useful note is that there now appears to be a hornet or wasp nest behind the big flake on pitch one. I avoided getting stung, but it did not feel pleasant to jam my hands in there. Other than that, great route. We hiked easily to the top of Lembert Dome after topping out, and simply took the hiking trail down to the right. Oct 11, 2015
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
  5.6
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
  5.6
First pitch is getting a bit slimy, but otherwise a quality route for the easy grade. Sep 8, 2015
This route has a little bit of everything. We did it with my son for a quick day out. I'm not sure how folks can give this two stars. Its clean, a cool line with good exposure and some cool moves at a very easy grade. Sep 1, 2014
Stevee B
Oakland, CA
Stevee B   Oakland, CA
Did the 5.9 in approach shoes when my partner mistakenly lead partway up it then freaked. Good times. Jul 18, 2014
One of the oldest routes in the Meadows, just imagine!! A great introductory climb with a little bit of everything. Aug 29, 2013
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
 
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
 
This was my first Harding route. Great time. Do the 5.9 variation. Nov 11, 2012
Angie C
Seattle, Wa
 
Angie C   Seattle, Wa
 
I highly recommend the 5.9 variation on the second pitch. I do not think I would have enjoyed this route so much with out it. The views are great.

Regarding the walk off, if you cut right too soon, the third class walk off turns into fourth class, which I found to be unfortunately stressful at the end of a climbing day. Aug 20, 2012
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
The 5.9 variation is fun and recommended. Sep 14, 2010
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
How hard is the Orange spot variation? Is there any gear? Looks like a better way to finish, but I didn't want to risk it... Sep 21, 2009
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.6
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.6
A terrific way to zip up Lembert Dome in time for a glorious Tuolumne sunset! Apr 7, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.6
C Miller   CA  
  5.6
This is a good route worth doing if you don't have much time and want to get in a few more pitches. The 5.9 variation (on pitch 1) mentioned is short, well-protected and seemed the logical way to go as I recall. Sep 25, 2007