Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Warren Harding and Frank de Saussure, 1954
Page Views: 16,264 total · 104/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Sep 25, 2007
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.

P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.

P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.

Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).

Location

The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.

Protection

Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.

Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary)
set of nuts
long slings

Photos