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Routes in Northwest Face

Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edgeumacated T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Spencer, 1985
Page Views: 576 total, 9/month
Shared By: Sean H on May 23, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Tightly bolted route by Tuolumne standards. Some guidebooks describe the 5.8 climbing to the first bolt as runout, but it's really pretty mellow.

There is a second pitch with no pro that did not look that exciting.

P1: Climb mostly straight up, trending slightly left toward the first bolt.

One could clip the first bolt with a longer runner to completely eliminate drag, but it's not bad either way.

From the first bolt, climb on a diagonal mostly up and to the left for 6 more bolts.

At this point, there is a short section of slab Supertopo describes as 5.7, which this climber thought felt considerably easier, especially for the Meadows. You could take up some small gear, around green/yellow Alien sized, however if you haven't had trouble up to here, you most likely don't need it to get to the chains.

In general, whenever difficulty is encountered, the best course of action is to move further left, and then up. Positive holds abound.

Descent: Not sure on route length, but rapping on a single 60m rope will easily get you back to the belay ledge.

Location

Easiest approach would be to climb Beginner's Route and head right. Could also climb one of the Water Cracks (or similar) and scramble toward the NW. Belay is at a ledge with a bush.

Protection

7 draws, plus something for the anchors (2 bolts.)

Photos

Got to the base (after climbing the 5.4R beginner's route, which is an easy solo / scramble), and wondered out loud why someone would bail from the 2nd biner after having made it past the ~35ft of 5.8 soloing. Well... I'll tell you why someone would want to bail at the 2nd bolt. It's because the rock will not stop shattering / crumbling underneath your fingertips and feet. I was showering my belay partner with rock.

SuperTopo made this route sound appealing. I left grateful for that bail biner. Keep your helmet on. Jun 6, 2016
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10 PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10 PG13
Not sure where the anchors are. Our route had an extra bolt or two than indicated on the Falcon topo and a long run out to a ledge with no anchors. Aug 24, 2014
Wierd route. Best part was the 5.4 chimney on P1! The bolted section was ok, but had crumbly friable edges for feet. Second pitch was 5.7 climbing but with very little gear. Mar 6, 2013