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Routes in Northwest Face
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Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Cry Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Northwest Bush (Northwest Books Direct) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Mark Spencer, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,755 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sean H on May 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Tightly bolted route by Tuolumne standards. Some guidebooks describe the 5.8 climbing to the first bolt as runout, but it's really pretty mellow.
There is a second pitch with no pro that did not look that exciting.
P1: Climb mostly straight up, trending slightly left toward the first bolt.
One could clip the first bolt with a longer runner to completely eliminate drag, but it's not bad either way.
From the first bolt, climb on a diagonal mostly up and to the left for 6 more bolts.
At this point, there is a short section of slab Supertopo describes as 5.7, which this climber thought felt considerably easier, especially for the Meadows. You could take up some small gear, around green/yellow Alien sized, however if you haven't had trouble up to here, you most likely don't need it to get to the chains.
In general, whenever difficulty is encountered, the best course of action is to move further left, and then up. Positive holds abound.
Descent: Not sure on route length, but rapping on a single 60m rope will easily get you back to the belay ledge.
There is a second pitch with no pro that did not look that exciting.
P1: Climb mostly straight up, trending slightly left toward the first bolt.
One could clip the first bolt with a longer runner to completely eliminate drag, but it's not bad either way.
From the first bolt, climb on a diagonal mostly up and to the left for 6 more bolts.
At this point, there is a short section of slab Supertopo describes as 5.7, which this climber thought felt considerably easier, especially for the Meadows. You could take up some small gear, around green/yellow Alien sized, however if you haven't had trouble up to here, you most likely don't need it to get to the chains.
In general, whenever difficulty is encountered, the best course of action is to move further left, and then up. Positive holds abound.
Descent: Not sure on route length, but rapping on a single 60m rope will easily get you back to the belay ledge.
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