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Routes in Northwest Face

Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edgeumacated T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Cantwell, Barry Chambers 1997
Page Views: 178 total, 2/month
Shared By: john durr on Sep 14, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

John Henry is a fine two pitch bolted face route. An easier alternative to Crying Time if that climb is booked up or a fun way to start the Direct NW Face route.

While the bolts are well located to protect each hard move, you can expect to be well above each bolt on relatively easier climbing.

Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face right near the edge of a recess on the right side of the apron.

Pitch 1: Head up the low angle crack as it heads up and right, as it bends further right find a nice 1-2" cam placement and head up and left on the slab past two hard to see and well spaced bolts to a new double bolt anchor/rap. 5.7(5.6R) - 180 feet.

Pitch 2: Head up and right up ever steeper and harder face climbing with nice holds and good rests past 8 bolts to a double bolt anchor/rap. 5.9 - 180 feet.

From here you can do two double rope rappels from the fixed anchors or continue up Direct NW Face. If you choose to continue up, follow moderate slabby ledges up and left 5.7 -OR- up and right past an old rusty 1/4" bolt on slabby ledges and then back left to join the second to last pitch of Direct NW Face - one move of 5.9R.

Location

On the NW Face of Lembert Dome, with great afternoon sunshine.

Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face. This thin seam is just left of a large low angle right facing dihedral. This is uphill from NW Book.

Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes or better: follow Direct NW Face route with a short 5.9 slab above the last anchor then traverse left on a ledge to link into that route and belay just before the crux pitch of that route as a third pitch reaching the top in four excellent pitches total.

Protection

Bolts and a 1-2" cam for protection. Bolted belays with rappel rings. All new bolts with new hangers thanks to ASCA!

Photos

Actually all bolts on this except one at the first belay are the original ones. Someone stole a nut and hanger from the first belay, and since it was a Fixe metric nut (I didn't have an extra one with me), I had to drill one new bolt at the first anchor. So only one bolt at the first belay is ASCA. Aug 26, 2011