All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Lembert Dome > Northwest Face

John Henry

Name: John Henry
Rating: 2.7

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Northwest Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Cry Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Northwest Bush (Northwest Books Direct) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Chris Cantwell, Barry Chambers 1997
Page Views:	1,357 total · 8/month
Shared By:	john durr on Sep 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

John Henry is a fine two pitch bolted face route. A fun way to start the Direct NW Face route.

While the bolts are well located to protect each hard move, you can expect to be well above each bolt on relatively easier climbing.

Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face right near the edge of a recess on the right side of the apron.

Pitch 1: Head up the low angle crack as it heads up and right, as it bends further right find a nice 1-2" cam placement and head up and left on the slab past two hard to see and well spaced bolts to a new double bolt anchor/rap. 5.7(5.6R) - 180 feet.

Pitch 2: Head up and right up ever steeper and harder face climbing with nice holds and good rests past 8 bolts to a double bolt anchor/rap. 5.9 - 180 feet.

From here you can do two double rope rappels from the fixed anchors or continue up Direct NW Face. If you choose to continue up, climb some dirty slab up and right past an old rusty 1/4" bolt on slabby ledges and then back left to join the second to last pitch of Direct NW Face - one move of 5.9R.

Location

On the NW Face of Lembert Dome, with great afternoon sunshine.

Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face. This thin seam is just left of a large low angle right facing dihedral. This is uphill from NW Book.

Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes or better: follow Direct NW Face route with a short 5.9 slab above the last anchor then traverse left on a ledge to link into that route and belay just before the crux pitch of that route as a third pitch reaching the top in four excellent pitches total.