Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Cantwell, Barry Chambers 1997
Page Views: 334 total · 3/month
Shared By: john durr on Sep 14, 2010 with improvements by Bill Lundeen
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

John Henry is a fine two pitch bolted face route. An easier alternative to Crying Time if that climb is booked up or a fun way to start the Direct NW Face route.

While the bolts are well located to protect each hard move, you can expect to be well above each bolt on relatively easier climbing.

Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face right near the edge of a recess on the right side of the apron.

Pitch 1: Head up the low angle crack as it heads up and right, as it bends further right find a nice 1-2" cam placement and head up and left on the slab past two hard to see and well spaced bolts to a new double bolt anchor/rap. 5.7(5.6R) - 180 feet.

Pitch 2: Head up and right up ever steeper and harder face climbing with nice holds and good rests past 8 bolts to a double bolt anchor/rap. 5.9 - 180 feet.

From here you can do two double rope rappels from the fixed anchors or continue up Direct NW Face. If you choose to continue up, dirty slab up and right past an old rusty 1/4" bolt on slabby ledges and then back left to join the second to last pitch of Direct NW Face - one move of 5.9R.

Location

On the NW Face of Lembert Dome, with great afternoon sunshine.

Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face. This thin seam is just left of a large low angle right facing dihedral. This is uphill from NW Book.

Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes or better: follow Direct NW Face route with a short 5.9 slab above the last anchor then traverse left on a ledge to link into that route and belay just before the crux pitch of that route as a third pitch reaching the top in four excellent pitches total.

Protection

Bolts and a 1-2" cam for protection. Bolted belays with rappel rings. All new bolts with new hangers thanks to ASCA!

Photos

Actually all bolts on this except one at the first belay are the original ones. Someone stole a nut and hanger from the first belay, and since it was a Fixe metric nut (I didn't have an extra one with me), I had to drill one new bolt at the first anchor. So only one bolt at the first belay is ASCA. Aug 26, 2011
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.10- PG13
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.10- PG13
This climb should get more attention, it's great climbing.

Disagree with couple parts of the description: this route is not easier than Crying Time Again; it's relatively sustained 5.9/10a climbing for a lot of the second pitch, and while it's relatively well protected (especially for tuolumne), you are making some of the harder moves a decent distance above some bolts (bolted on lead - often a hard move before getting to a drilling stance).

The bolts on the first pitch are hard to spot; somehow I missed the first one, taking a direct line to the second bolt (which we saw from the ground, look to the left of two small left/down facing corner/bulges). Should have gone a bit more left to the first bolt. Sep 17, 2018