Avg: 2.5 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Chris Cantwell, Barry Chambers 1997|
|Page Views:||726 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||john durr on Sep 14, 2010 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
While the bolts are well located to protect each hard move, you can expect to be well above each bolt on relatively easier climbing.
Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face right near the edge of a recess on the right side of the apron.
Pitch 1: Head up the low angle crack as it heads up and right, as it bends further right find a nice 1-2" cam placement and head up and left on the slab past two hard to see and well spaced bolts to a new double bolt anchor/rap. 5.7(5.6R) - 180 feet.
Pitch 2: Head up and right up ever steeper and harder face climbing with nice holds and good rests past 8 bolts to a double bolt anchor/rap. 5.9 - 180 feet.
From here you can do two double rope rappels from the fixed anchors or continue up Direct NW Face. If you choose to continue up, dirty slab up and right past an old rusty 1/4" bolt on slabby ledges and then back left to join the second to last pitch of Direct NW Face - one move of 5.9R.
Start about 200 feet down and south (right) from the start of Direct NW Face, look for a low angle seam/crack on the face. This thin seam is just left of a large low angle right facing dihedral. This is uphill from NW Book.
Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes or better: follow Direct NW Face route with a short 5.9 slab above the last anchor then traverse left on a ledge to link into that route and belay just before the crux pitch of that route as a third pitch reaching the top in four excellent pitches total.