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Routes in Northwest Face

Big Boys Don't Cry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crying Time Again T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Northwest Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edgeumacated T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
John Henry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mega Bleam S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sandbag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Leary, Ricky Wheeler and Dennis Philips 1975
Page Views: 226 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Maybe not as classic as Crying Time Again, but good nonetheless. If the marginal pro on the last pitch is too daunting one can easily escape right on the big ledge.

Pitch 1 - poorly protected 5.8 climbing past one bolt to a single bolt and gear belay.

Pitch 2 - steep, well protected climbing past three bolts(5.10a). Higher up a fourth bolt leads to a small ledge where you belay.

Pitch 3 - climb up on knobs and edges past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Crying Time Again comes in from the left, make sure you head up and right to the belay.

Pitch 4 - climb more or less straight up past two bolts to the big ledge which cuts across the face. There are some big knobs up there!

BITD, we used to combine pitches 3 & 4 into one, long rope stretching 180' pitch when the longest ropes we had were 165'!

Pitch 5 - climb up and right past a couple of pieces of fixed protection(5.10c) then head straight to the top.

Location

This route lies to the right of Crying Time Again and left of the Direct Northwest Face. Follow the 3rd class cracks which share the start with the Direct Northwest Face. Head up and left from the cracks to begin the route.

Walk off the top of Lembert Dome on ledges on the south face.

Protection

The climb is almost entirely bolt protected. Bring a rack up to 2" for the belays.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c R
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c R
i would give this 3 stars if the rock quality was a little better. runouts and friable flakes don't mix well. better stick with the knobs and solid edges.
P1 - THE bolt is hard to find, hopefully the pic will help others avoid wandering around endlessly
P2 - i thought this was hard for 10a. the crux is the most well protected part of the entire climb. that said, if you fall before clipping the 3rd bolt you're still going for a 30'+ ride. we did not see a fourth (upper, last) bolt.
P3 - probably the easiest pitch, you get some solid small gear and a couple of bolts
P4 - technically about the same as P3 (not hard for 5.9), but only 2 bolts on the entire pitch
P5 - two bolts with the potential for a lot of rope drag and decking after the 2nd bolt (crux). at the 2nd bolt tyler went left, up, then back right to the crack. imho a good choice if you're leading. i went straight up at the 2nd bolt and blew a right foot when part of a thin flake crumbled. 2nd try, same thin flake and some funky upside down sloping move got me to better holds. if you do this on lead and fall you will crater... Aug 4, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
IIRC the runout last pitch goes straight up the face (?) and the relatively safe corner is a variation (one move of 5.10) with good pro.

The main route is full value Tuolumne run outs for sure on steepish knobs but has seams and ledge like features for rests, yet still 5.9 a good distance above the bolts. Falling is not optional really...Crying Time Again is a great route for some safe exercise. Big Boys more of a full value rock climb that is a different cup of tea and I must say, made the summit a lot more special.

A vote for leaving some challenge in our sport. Jun 29, 2016