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Northwest Books
5.6,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 446
votes
FA: Warren Harding and Frank de Saussure, 1954
California
> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
> Lembert Dome
> Northwest Face
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.
P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.
P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.
Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).
Location
The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.
Protection
Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.
Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary)
set of nuts
long slings
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay for Northwest Books and DirectNorthwest Face.
[Hide Photo] Tradmeister Mark Landreth on NW Books
[Hide Photo] Courtney exiting the book after the laybacking
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the middle belay from the top belay. Photo by David Poulsen
[Hide Photo] The start of the easy walk up to the first belay station.
[Hide Photo] Starting up pitch 3 from optional second belay.
CA
W. Lebanon, NH
Boulder
Salt Lake City, UT
Regarding the walk off, if you cut right too soon, the third class walk off turns into fourth class, which I found to be unfortunately stressful at the end of a climbing day. Aug 20, 2012
Tempe, AZ
Oakland, CA
Reno, NV
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Sierras
Arroyo Grande, CA
San Francisco
Flagstaff, AZ
the mantle getting above the bolt was spicy but super unique and interesting. gotta love that old school 5.6.
do the 5.9 variation!!! Aug 20, 2020
Colorado
Going down and around in either direction, when done right, is very casual. Aug 20, 2020
The 5.9 crack is phenomenal, and if no one is in line you can zip it up and easily build an anchor on the ledge above for a short pitch and retrieve your gear. I think I struggled at the top of the crack, if I remember correctly I needed to go right to exit. Apr 4, 2021
Venice, CA
Cupertino, CA
I would recommend the 5.9 variation. It was super engaging.
Walk-off wasn't terrible, mostly 3rd class with small sections of 4th class. Would not want to do it wet though. Nov 11, 2024