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Routes in Dam - Back Side

All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bagpiper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Than Pool and Pie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
California Boys S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Dam Gully (?) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Evarete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer V0 4
M & M's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nugget and a Biscuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Rib S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,136 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description [Suggest Change]

In all my years of climbing in the Needles, I have never seen anyone climb this route. Too bad... 'cause it's beautiful. Even though it's "just a 7", the opening moves have a bit of a bouldery flavor. After topping the small "pinnacle", clip the first old bolt and make a couple delicate moves to the first of several jugs. Clip the second old bolt and move through the crux up and right through a few sloping holds. Keep your EYES OPEN for the third, relatively new BEEFY bolt that appears just as your nerves begin to rattle. Two options exist to finish. Either rappel from the first set of old 1/4 anchors with weathered slings, or continue past the bulge through unprotected knobs to a newer set of bolts and slings. A single 60m rope will reach the ground from the first anchors... but I'm not sure about the upper rappel station. (Thunder and lightning forced an early retreat...)

Location [Suggest Change]

Immediately right of "Better Than Pool & Pie" you'll see all kinds of tourists admiring the "small waterfall". M & M's begins on the arete just right of this "water feature".

Protection [Suggest Change]

2 old, rusted 1/4" button heads and one new 3/8" BEEFY bolt!

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I lead this back in the day when all the bolts were bad, and it scared the hell out of me. It is a really good route though. Mar 14, 2008
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
  5.7 R
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
  5.7 R
I just led this and I missed this apparent new BEEFY BOLT. It says keep your eyes open for it...is it somehow hard to see? I ran it out all the way from the second super old bolt that I'm pretty sure wouldn't have held. It was fun and not too hard of a climb. Definitely need your head in the right place though. May 3, 2009
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
All hardware replaced by BHCC on 7/17/15. First set of anchors were removed. It now goes all the way to a huge belay ledge. Bring one finger or hand size cam for the horizontal. Jul 20, 2015

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