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Routes in Dam - Back Side

All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bagpiper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Than Pool and Pie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
California Boys S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Dam Gully (?) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Evarete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer V0 4
M & M's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nugget and a Biscuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Rib S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: JFM on Jul 22, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A somewhat interesting gully with a few shorter sections of "real" climbing.

Getting into the thing requires some stemming. Then travel up the gully to a quartzy off-vertical bit-- climb that and angle up and right* in a trough. Finish at a short face and top out.

Alternately, you can head up the left wall of the gully and your chances of finding a walk-off are higher.

Location

Approaching from the loop-parking lot to the east, follow the trail down the stone stairs. This is the first wide gully on the left.

Getting down... You could probably down-climb. Or jump across to the east and then walk off. Or do a Needles Style Rap. We left some webbing and rapped down. ie., no anchors and getting down is an adventure.

Protection

Single rack with nuts, runners. Used WC #4, #3.5, #3 for anchor in a horizontal at the top. No fixed gear.

Photos

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JFM
 
JFM  
 
If anyone has a real name for this let me know. I don't think an FA'ist would bother to lay claim to the route, but I figured it's worth cataloging in any event. Jul 22, 2013