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Routes in Dam - Back Side

All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bagpiper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Than Pool and Pie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
California Boys S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Dam Gully (?) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Evarete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer V0 4
M & M's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nugget and a Biscuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Rib S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,199 total, 6/month
Shared By: Kevin Fons on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is a great route with a hard start and good protection. Go through the damn and right down to the open area. It is on the North Corner of the rock which is the next rock over from Better than Pool & Pie.

The route starts right on the corner which is very steep on some smaller holds to the first bolt. It stays hard until somewhere between the second and third bolt where it eases off. The rest of the rout is fun easier climbing on bigger holds. There are 4 bolts in all. The anchor is solid.This and the other routes on the back of the damn are a great way to finish off a day.

You can TR this by leading the much easier Better Than Pool and Pie and walking over to these anchors.

Protection

4 Nice Bolts to some good anchors.

Photos

Tater Tot
Custer, SD
  5.9+ R
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
  5.9+ R
Beta says four bolts...I only remember 3 but could be wrong.

I had a blast on this route! A hard start - I fell a couple times before the first bolt but there was plenty of mud below making for a soft fall, which I think is usually the case at the bottom of this route. Used an extra shirt to clean my shoes and then chalked them up. Half way up, awesome jugs and a low angle all the way to the top - probably 5.3 or 5.4 climbing on a fun easy face! I imagine the last half of this climb to be like Leaning Tower in the Needles! I suppose I'll find out soon! Apr 22, 2009
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.9+ X
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.9+ X
Dont fall once you arfe past the last bolt! We set up a top rope after doing Better Than Pool and Pie. Thats probably the best and safest way to do this route. Sep 2, 2008
Josiah Reams
Rapid City, SD
  5.9+ R
Josiah Reams   Rapid City, SD
  5.9+ R
I did this route yesterday and only counted three bolts on the ~100 foot climb with the third bolt being less than half-way up the route. A fall near the top would probably result in a meeting with The Reaper. However, climbing eases from 5.8 to 5.6 at the third bolt. There are a couple of horns that could be slung with narrow slings for marginal pro, and one might be able to place some pro with long slings to prevent rope drag in the large crack out left. Jul 22, 2007
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10a R
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.10a R
Great pro?... Well, I guess for the Needles, it's "not bad". Just DON'T FALL during the final moves... Aug 5, 2005