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Routes in Dam - Back Side

All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bagpiper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Than Pool and Pie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
California Boys S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Dam Gully (?) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Evarete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer V0 4
M & M's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nugget and a Biscuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Rib S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: Tom Scott and T Doughty 1977
Page Views: 1,515 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Mar 8, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Incredible route that is usually top-roped. Beginning moves require balance and great feet. At about the 20 ft. point, the jugs appear and you can cruise. Anchors are shared with Pieces of Eight.

You can TR this by leading the much easier Better Than Pool and Pie and walking over to these anchors.

Location

The beautiful face immediately right of Pieces of Eight.

Protection

2 bolts. First bolt is at 30 ft, hence the fact that most parties top rope this route.

Photos

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.8+ R
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.8+ R
This a sweet pitch. The 5.7 rating seems a bit old school. The bottom 25ft or so felt much harder than that, but once you leave the water groove it backs off in a hurry and becomes very low angle. Cruiser the rest of the way. Have bolts been added to this down low-- didn't seem as insane as I was expecting? Still way runout higher up-- but it is really easy... Aug 5, 2013
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
  5.7 X
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
  5.7 X
Love this route! But definite potential for ground fall, either before 1st bolt, or between 1st and 2nd. Don't see many people on it even though it's really stellar! Should be climbed more! Mar 9, 2010