Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Sperlock
Page Views: 438 total · 3/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2007 with improvements by Chelsea Wood Faust
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

53 Opinions

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Start on top of a large flake and follow three bolts to the base of the column. A long runner is helpful here at the 4th bolt. Follow well spaced bolts up crack and face climbing. This section is slightly overhanging and is the best part of the route. Wild moves and exposure leads to a chain anchor. You should consider rapping or bringing long runners for the anchors.


This route leads up the west face along the tallest column.


8 well-spaced bolts with chain anchors.


Iain Morris
Iain Morris  
This thing is fun! Exciting moves, big holds. Jul 30, 2007
Great route and gets you away from the roadside crowds. Bring a few small nuts if you'd like to supplement the overhanging section with a piece of pro. Big holds on sharp rock. A 60 meter rope is plenty long. Sep 7, 2009
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Upper section is really classic. A couple of link cams removed any runout worries. Jun 23, 2011
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Clip the last bolt before the vertical section with a long runner then punch it on hidden jugs and wild stems.
The direct finish (straight above the last bolt) involves 15' of big moves to great holds on a steep prow, it feels very airy but more rewarding that heading right on easier terrain and making a few steep moves to the chains. Sep 27, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Yep. Punch it directly up the arĂȘte for a 3star lead. Jun 20, 2016
Chelsea Wood Faust
Boise, ID
  5.10a PG13
Chelsea Wood Faust   Boise, ID
  5.10a PG13
An excellent, overhanging, non-pumpy, juggy and stemmy climb! 8 bolts leads to chain anchors. Use a long runner at bolt #4, at the base of the column. I recommend generously extending the anchors if following on TR, or if planning on being lowered. Otherwise you should rappel to lower.

Super fun, classic! Awesome climb for a solid 10a leader, but not recommended for a new 10a leader, due to the potential for serious injury if you fall between the 4th and 5th bolt (This is why it's PG13) Jun 18, 2018