PRINT: Rock Climb Lego, City of Rocks

Lego

5.10a PG13, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),

Avg: 3 from 103 votes
FA: Sperlock
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Building Blocks > Building Blocks - West

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Start on top of a large flake and follow three bolts to the base of the column. A long runner is helpful here at the 4th bolt. Follow well spaced bolts up crack and face climbing. This section is slightly overhanging and is the best part of the route. Wild moves and exposure leads to a chain anchor. You should consider rapping or bringing long runners for the anchors.

Location

This route leads up the west face along the tallest column.

Protection

8 well-spaced bolts with chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The start of LEGO, 10a. The 1st bolt (red "X") is stick clipable

LEGO. 8 bolts to chain anchors

Rappel - 70M will get you to the ground no problem

Terry leading off Lego

The upper section of the route...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Iain Morris

5.10a

This thing is fun! Exciting moves, big holds. Jul 30, 2007

ColinP

Great route and gets you away from the roadside crowds. Bring a few small nuts if you'd like to supplement the overhanging section with a piece of pro. Big holds on sharp rock. A 60 meter rope is plenty long. Sep 7, 2009

Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY

Upper section is really classic. A couple of link cams removed any runout worries. Jun 23, 2011

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT

5.10a

Clip the last bolt before the vertical section with a long runner then punch it on hidden jugs and wild stems.
The direct finish (straight above the last bolt) involves 15' of big moves to great holds on a steep prow, it feels very airy but more rewarding that heading right on easier terrain and making a few steep moves to the chains. Sep 27, 2011

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10a PG13

Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead. Jun 20, 2016

Chelsea Wood
Reno, NV

5.10a PG13

An excellent, overhanging, non-pumpy, juggy and stemmy climb! 8 bolts leads to chain anchors. Use a long runner at bolt #4, at the base of the column. I recommend generously extending the anchors if following on TR, or if planning on being lowered. Otherwise you should rappel to lower.

Super fun, classic! Awesome climb for a solid 10a leader, but not recommended for a new 10a leader, due to the potential for serious injury if you fall between the 4th and 5th bolt (This is why it's PG13) Jun 18, 2018

Cody Lee
Ogden, UT

This route has been upgraded with new ss glue-in bolts + Climbtech steel lower-offs in 2021 thanks to Nate Liles of the ASCA.

The anchor is now in a better location to allow for a clean lower, no need to rappel over the edge. Static lines supplied by Maxim Ropes, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Oct 8, 2021