Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Madigan, Bullock 1990
Page Views: 1,398 total · 10/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2007 with updates from Chelsea Wood
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

This is an hidden classic! The first bolt is 30ft off the deck, but you can fiddle a medium hex at 20ft. Follow fun patina plate climbing to a crux roof. You get cool exposure as you climb patina edges along a leaning arete.

Location

The right most bolted line on the west face

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors, optional medium hex

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Hex? Bomber .75 or #1 halfway up to the first bolt in patina cracks.
Unless you like cowbells. Steep for 10a and quite exposed, great line. The edges on top are the biggest yet skinniest patina I've yarded on at the City. Sep 26, 2011
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
The climbing is pretty straightforward to the high first bolt. If you are comfortable with heights and a confident climber, it should not be a problem. If concerned, there are plenty of places low to plug some gear. Jul 23, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG. Jun 20, 2016
Chelsea Wood
Boise, ID
 
Chelsea Wood   Boise, ID
 
I don't recommend stick clipping after scrambling up 15-20 ft, but it can be done, and made me feel better about the high first bolt (30 ft off the deck).

Scramble up to the easy-to-sit-in half-pipe and head left to the first bolt. Staying left of the bolt line is more fun and challenging, especially at the overhanging roof near the end. Good protection (with exception of the 1st bolt).

I thought Lego was more rewarding, but this is worth doing. Jun 18, 2018