Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: G. Lowe, long ago.
Page Views: 255 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 29, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is a pretty decent climb. The difficulty overall and the crux are both determined by the precise path you take, but the way we did it felt to be in the lower 5.10 range. The rock was pretty solid and good gear opportunity was plentiful enough to keep a a leader safe even if pushing their limits. Though the book suggests a difficulty of "10/11" I failed to find a line any harder than 5.10-. I thought it was fairly similar in grade to 'Acid Rain.'
Start off in the smaller cracks and some edges, about 5.9 (?) then continue up moderate climbing toward an inset with many crack options. We took the most direct line and encountered a crux bulge about 1/2 way up the only felt 5.10-. Belay up top, then rap down as for Lego.

Location

This climb ascends the center of the West Face via a trad line. It is the obvious crack system to the left of the huge roofs of 'Vice Grips' and just right of the bolted line (and popular warm-up), 'Lego.'
Start on finger cracks and face holds and finish on jams and buckets.

Protection

A standard rack from nuts to cams. A double set of cams might be useful if you place a lot of gear.

Photos

Miguel D
SLC
 
Miguel D   SLC
 
Takes mostly small gear. Pretty fun Jun 12, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
This is called the "Lowe Route" in the new Bingham guide. Very fun route and worthy of the name. Apr 23, 2018