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Routes in The Fang

Belligerent Buttress S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Therapy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Goldfinger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
October Light T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perfect Stemetry S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stiletto S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell, June 1996
Page Views: 1,314 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This striking arete was originally a Mark Rolofson project, but was freed by Tommy Caldwell in the summer of 1996. Easily visible from CO Highway 7, this route begs to be climbed. However, due to a (mild) hike and some impossibly thin foot, and finger work, this route has seen less than half a dozen redpoints.

Begin the climb with a strange and difficult series of moves bending left over the lowest point of the arete (13a/b). Follow with ~40 feet of very enjoyable moderate climbing to a hard (12d) move sequence over a small roof. Finish the route with a ~10 move (13+) puzzle on small grips and invisible feet. Classic.

Protection

11 QD, 2 bolt anchor. Could use some very small gear for the first 20 feet of choss.

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