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Routes in The Fang

Belligerent Buttress S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Therapy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Goldfinger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
October Light T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perfect Stemetry S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stiletto S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, 1994
Page Views: 1,064 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

With the exception of a single, short trad crack the Belligerent Buttress is the easiest route on The Fang. It begins off a flake/block system on the right (West) end of the crag, facing North.

Difficulties begin immediately. A clip underneath an overhang launches the first hard move (5.12a) that simply gets you started on the route. Pull left, around, and over the lip of the overhang to catch some very thin face climbing above. Cruxes at 35 feet and 65 feet, both 5.12a/b, complete the climbing. Everything you need is close at hand, including a thin seam system near the top. Hang on, stay on your feet, and enjoy one of the best routes on The Fang.

Three stars for the great stone, the climbing moves, the continuity, and the fine bolting job.

Protection

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 9-10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
This was the first route that I established at the crag in September 1992. It was the first sport route on the crag, too. There are three hard sections. The start, pulling over the roof, & getting established on the face above is the first hard section (.12a). Then gain a great rest. The second obstacle ascends a steep slab with a seam up the right side of the prow (.12a). The crux is the finish up the overhanging prow (.12b). Fun route with relatively friendly holds. There are 9 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. May 11, 2017