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Routes in The Fang

Belligerent Buttress S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Therapy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Goldfinger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
October Light T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perfect Stemetry S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stiletto S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jim Brink, Joe Varella
Page Views: 169 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jim Brink on Oct 10, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is probably 5.9 but is only the first 8 feet off the ground and well-protected. The rest can be done in two pitches (85' and 65') or one long pitch. There is lichen in places, but use will fix that. The climbing is varied, imaginative and fun.

Begin in the obvious alcove below bolts for 2 sport routes. Climb the tricky start, and hand traverse up and right to a strange squeeze at the apex. Continue up the v-slot to a belay (or not) at the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney, and continue up the outside of the wide crack (stemming not OW) on to easier ground to the top.

Location

Begin on the west face of the fang in the same alcove with a roof where 2 sport routes begin.

Descend 4th class ground to the south and west. The route can be seen from bottom to top standing 40 feet out from the cliff. It is a huge, right-facing corner.

Protection

All trad. There is no fixed pro or anchors of any kind. A #6 Camalot or similar sized Bigbro would be helpful.

Photos

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