Bolt Route *
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|Page Views:||1,399 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Johnny Ray on Jun 13, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Description(one of those nasty) 5.9+
Begin directly below the vertical thin crack, seam. Climb past one bolt up into a gentle wave/bulge on smeary footing. It is easier to climb to the left of the bottom of the crack and step right into the crack up a few feet. The rest of the climb in the fingers, thin hands to hands crack is a fun romp to the top. The belay is a primo comfy ledge with excellent (yet funky) anchor or gear bckup.
This would be a very serious lead in its grade and best top roped unless you are solid at leading 5.10 - 5.10+ Unfortunately it is not well protected at the crux (close to ground fall with one bolt stud). If it were better protected down low this could be a 2-star route and perhaps would see a lot more leads.
LocationThe obvious slab to thin crack line, that is 20 feet left of 'The Ring Leader' and about 35 left of the large unnamed offwidth corner.
Protectionstandard light free rack, mostly smaller gear but you may want a couple cams in the #2 -# size for the top of the crack. The anchor is two huge iron spikes beat into a nice splitter crack. I think they could haul up a cement truck but if you wish you can back these up with a cam or two in the #2.5 - #3.5 range.
As of January 2015, the route has been equipped with glue-in bolts in the bottom section. There are also glue-in anchor bolts at the top.