The Ring Leader
Avg: 2.2 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Larry Moore, late '80s|
|Page Views:||1,331 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Johnny Ray on Jun 13, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe Ring Leader **5.8 mixed, two bolts
The Ring Leader is a fun climb to top rope but would be a fairly serious lead in its grade.
Start 15 right of the unammed off width, climb up and slightly right past to (not so great) bolts, the second one has no hanger so bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger. Climb to the top of the left sloping ramp, the crux is the next short serious moves to gain the base of the crack. unfortunately the pro at this point is not so great. Once you gain the crack the rest of the route has fun climbing and great pro. The belay at the top is 4 bolts I think two had no hangers.
This would be an engaging lead for any 5.8-5.9 climber, however it is very easy to top rope to set up with one rope.
LocationSandy corridor is a great place to get in a couple quick clims as the approach is just a few minutes from the sanstone quarry parking area. It remains fairly cool and the west wall is in shade most of the day except late summer afternoons.
When you first enter the corridor, you walk along a small bluff on your right. At the top is a multiple bolt anchor. This is a great area for teaching rappellimg or the use of ascenders, as the wall is fairly steep, about 35- 40' high and has a "ballroom floor" ledge on top.
Continuing into the corridor, on the right you will pass a large inside, left facing corner with a large offwidth/squeeze crack. This is unnammed, FA unknown. It is hard to protect, but if you like being swallowed whole by fat cracks, this could be a fun little top rope.
The climb mentioned above is a major landmark for identifing the next few climbs. The next few routes lay on the wall immediately to the right (north east) of the unnammed inside corner offwidth.
ProtectionBring 4 or 5 wired stoppers or rivet hangers, just for the bolts and anchor at top. Aside from that a light free rack is suficient the crack accepts a good variety of sizes and yes you can get a good piece in before the last buldge and face to the belay. As of January 2015 the route is now equipped with three glue-in 35kn bolts on the first section. A set of two similar glue-ins are present as an anchor also.
There are many sets of glue-ins at the top of this formation present at this time.