Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,188 total · 12/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Mar 22, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This irresistible route makes a great introduction to chimney climbing and a great place to practice a variety of chimney climbing techniques. Starts as an offwidth/squeeze chimney and gradually widens until a stem or body bridge technique must be used near the top.


Just inside the Sandy Corridor on the right. This chimney separates the first rock formation from the larger formation further inside the corridor. Easy walk-off to the right leads down to the mouth of the corridor.


There are 2 bolts at the top of the formation but you will need an extra rope or a lot of webbing (maybe 30'?) to get a top rope set up in the right place. There is also a 3"-4" pod above the climb that might be useful as a directional.
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
4 stars?!? really? Mar 25, 2011
adam winslow
Fort Collins, CO
adam winslow   Fort Collins, CO
It's just an opinion Karl, nothing is stopping you from voting with your own opinion. I personally seek the wide :) Mar 25, 2011
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.7 X
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.7 X
How would you possibly protect this thing? I had a 4 big bro and only could use it at the lower section. Also the anchors were in a horrible spot. Not even worth doing. Nov 28, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
If you're used to chimneys, this is well protected if you stay deep enough inside and know how to climb squeeze chimneys. You can only really fall if you fall out, and you can only fall out if you stay too far out to use unnecessary face holds. I'd call this a secure 5.6 chimney in Yosemite Valley, for comparison.

This is a great early chimney lead as it isn't too insecure, long, or sustained, but it is somewhat technical, so for those not used to squeezes, I'd recommend top roping this first. Practice downclimbing to get a sense of how solid you can be in a squeeze.

A single #3 BD C4 is the only piece of gear you'll need for this climb (somewhat optional). It protects a move from the widening chimney as you slot back into a squeeze near the top. Otherwise, technique is your pro. Kneepads can be nice to have.

The bolt anchors are a bit far back and far to the side. The top area is big and easy enough that for belaying a follower I recommend running the rope through the anchor as a TR, downclimb back into the top of the crack, tie off there, and belay from that spot. It is secure, with no rope drag, and you can see and communicate with the follower.

The walkoff is very easy and drops you down by the sandstone block quarry. Jan 31, 2016