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Routes in Wine and Roses

Cashew Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheyenne T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chief, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler on the roof T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Heroes and Zeroes T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pale Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Power Behind the Throne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Terminator Goes to the Prom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thanatos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
What, No Rope? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wine and Roses T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,469 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

While it has its own merit, this is a rather short climb for the West Canyon area. As such it is less recommended than some others. From the stance and bolt where you rapped in, climb up and right into a finger and handcrack, continuing back up to the canyon rim. The crux is short and definite, but protected.

Location

Perhaps 200 meters West of the Wine and Roses anchor and just past a dead-end gully descending part way into the canyon there is a huge right-facing corner. The buttress that this borders on the east is referred to as 'The Indian Head.' Rap from a bolted anchor to a stance with a bolt just down and left of a handcrack.

Protection

A standard rack.

Photos

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canyonclimber
Casper WY
 
canyonclimber   Casper WY
 
This route is worth getting on. The top out ledge is one of my favorite belays in the canyon. The top has two nice cracks at the top to build an anchor. The bolts you see at the top are for rapping to several routes including this one, but not for the top out of the Chief. Good two bolt anchor at the bottom where crack ends. There is a hard bolted extention below (12?) Apr 3, 2013
mika burns
laramie
mika burns   laramie
ya 2 jankie, loose bolts. Aug 21, 2011
Jeebus  
now has a two bolt anchor!!!!!! Mar 31, 2010
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
So short....not worth it till you do the other, longer routes. Sep 7, 2009