Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Petro and Arno Ilgner
Page Views: 12,500 total · 79/month
Shared By: SCherry on May 30, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

90 foot arching mostly hand crack, with a 20 foot big fingers/thin hands crux finish. Impecable rock quality, position and movement. One of the area's best and the climb to do at its grade

Location

Locate the anchors for the climb Thanatos (plaque, and about 100 yards downstream). Walk up stream past a set of anchors for the climbs Cashew Corner and Stigmata(From these anchors you can look over the edge and see the obvious and stunning line). The next set of anchors are obvious and right above the top of the crack. Rap in from the top 90 feet to a bolted belay at a very small ledge above the river.

Protection

Standard rack with extras in the hands sizes. We used 2-#1 camalots, 3-#2 camalots and 2-#3 camalots. Bring a BD .3 or similar for the start, some nuts, and save a couple thin hands pieces for the crux (purple and grey camalots)
Steve Kahn  
 
This route is one of the single best pitches i've ever done!

We need more stars for this one. Apr 25, 2008
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
This route looks spectacular. Adding it to the "to-do" list. Feb 6, 2010
travis mcalpine
eagle river, ak
 
travis mcalpine   eagle river, ak
 
epic route.
cant wait to get back to Fremont canyon Mar 19, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Check out our Fremont Canyon trip report on our website with many quality photos of Wine & Roses! aspiringalpinist.com/trip-r… Jun 13, 2016
My recommended rack (C4/X4 sizes): #.1, #.2, #.3(2 or 3), #.4(2), #.5, #.75(3), #1(2), #2, #3

The beginning (right after the anchors) takes those .1 and .2 X4s. Right near the top was the crux for me. I used a purple link cam as my last piece there (I'm guessing it would be about #.4 sized) - note that the last few feet of the crack actually are the edge of a large flake on the right, so my advice is to examine that as you rap in and figure out ahead of time where you would be comfortable placing your last cam (i.e. place it lower so that if you fall on it, it won't expand the flake).

Very cool route! I liked how on that slanting crack right as the feet were running out, a ramp appears for your feet. Oct 25, 2018
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
 
Bring a BD .3 to protect the opening moves. Apr 20, 2019