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Routes in Wine and Roses

Cashew Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheyenne T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chief, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler on the roof T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Heroes and Zeroes T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pale Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Power Behind the Throne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Terminator Goes to the Prom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thanatos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
What, No Rope? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wine and Roses T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 746 total, 14/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Locate bolts between Thantos and Wine and Roses and drop straight in.

Climb the polished thin hands/hands crack in the dihedral to its end and gain a ledge. From here it is easy to attempt the direct finish (5.11?) but the standard route moves around the bulge to the right and climbs back to the rim on one of many 5.6ish cracks.

Protection

Standard rack or drop a TR and call it good.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.9
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Crisp, immaculate crack in perfect rock. Single set of cams from tips to cups protects it well. Throw in an extra hand size or two if you don't feel comfortable on perfect hand jams. Would be 4 stars if it were longer. Gear not needed after pulling out of the corner... the rest is 5.easy. Jun 7, 2016