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Routes in Wine and Roses

Cashew Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheyenne T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chief, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler on the roof T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Heroes and Zeroes T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pale Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Power Behind the Throne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Terminator Goes to the Prom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thanatos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
What, No Rope? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wine and Roses T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,966 total, 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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6 Opinions

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Description

A good climb with some tricky moves. Also one of the longer routes around! Enjoy mostly good gear and good rock to the top of the climb, using longer slings to keep drag in check. In 2001 there was a family of otters who played in the river just east of the belay, keeping us entertained for the afternoon.

Location

Perhaps 200 meters West of the Wine and Roses anchor and just past a dead-end gully descending part way into the canyon there is a huge right-facing corner. The buttress that this borders on the east is referred to as 'The Indian Head.'

Protection

A standard rack, maybe a little heavier than normal, owing to the pitch length. Two ropes to rap in to a stance well above the river with a gear anchor.

Photos

canyonclimber
Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
There are bolts for top roping on the ledge. Keep the rope on the slot/crack closest to the river as you look down from the anchors. The other crack will get the rope stuck if the climber falls. If you are leading use the storming intrepid anchors (the obvious ones with the name plate). The climb starts in the smooth torpedo tube about 50 feet off the river, a natural belay with a cool start to the climb. Good morning sun/ pm shade. Apr 14, 2016
Jeebus  
word on the rock, but its in there pretty tightly. just don't crank on it. . . Mar 31, 2010
craigw  
Be careful on this route! There is a huge boulder that is loose near the bottom half of the climb (As of 6/13/09). If this were to come off it would injure the climber and belayer severely. Jun 16, 2009