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Routes in Wine and Roses

Cashew Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheyenne T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chief, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler on the roof T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Heroes and Zeroes T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pale Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Power Behind the Throne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Terminator Goes to the Prom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thanatos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
What, No Rope? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wine and Roses T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Bechtel?
Page Views: 567 total, 11/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Sep 26, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Rap from Plaque-less bolts about twenty feet right(climber's left) of Heroes and Zero's anchor, and about twenty feet left of the 12a's(Storming Intrepid? It has a plaque) anchor. Trend to climber's left as you rap in, otherwise you will miss the anchors, which are shared with the 12a (maybe not the right anchors? Petro's guidebook is vague).

Climb up and left past ten or so bolts through a few technical cruxes, with cool sidepulls and crimps. The climb is on like donkey kong until you get to a stance up on the slab above. You're not done until you jam the dihedral(gear here) and squirm up the surprisingly awkward top out past two more bolts.

We felt this climb was quite a bit tougher than Heroes, but quite enjoyable. My partner snapped a hold getting to the first bolt and almost factor2-d. Be careful.

Location

Rap from bolts twenty feet to skier's right of Heroes' bolts. Trend to climber's left as you rap in (follow the bolt line). Its a bit of a pendulum to get to the starting bolts.

Protection

Plenty of QDs, and a single rack should do ya.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Simply amazing line, my new favorite Freemont face climb! If you are planning on leading the route, rap from the anchor on top of storming intrepid since it deposits you at the same belay without having to swing around or clip any directionals. This will also keep your fixed line out of your way while leading out. Some of the bolts are getting quite rusted on this guy. May 5, 2014