Power Behind the Throne
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Wine and Roses
|Cashew Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cheyenne T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Chief, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fiddler on the roof T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Heroes and Zeroes T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Pale Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Power Behind the Throne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Terminator Goes to the Prom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Thanatos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|What, No Rope? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wine and Roses T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|Page Views:||567 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Lauffen on Sep 26, 2013|
DescriptionRap from Plaque-less bolts about twenty feet right(climber's left) of Heroes and Zero's anchor, and about twenty feet left of the 12a's(Storming Intrepid? It has a plaque) anchor. Trend to climber's left as you rap in, otherwise you will miss the anchors, which are shared with the 12a (maybe not the right anchors? Petro's guidebook is vague).
Climb up and left past ten or so bolts through a few technical cruxes, with cool sidepulls and crimps. The climb is on like donkey kong until you get to a stance up on the slab above. You're not done until you jam the dihedral(gear here) and squirm up the surprisingly awkward top out past two more bolts.
We felt this climb was quite a bit tougher than Heroes, but quite enjoyable. My partner snapped a hold getting to the first bolt and almost factor2-d. Be careful.