Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy , Charlie Fowler, Feb., 1987
Page Views: 1,987 total · 14/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 27, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route RULES! Pitch 1; Right facing crack system with the 5.11 lieback. (85') Pitch 2; Climb an O Wth crack past a drilled piton, then more O W crack (5.10+) to rap station. (80')

Location

Climbs the W face of the cliff around the corner left from Sunset Tower. It's a little less than 2 miles past the main highway, after you turn onto State Highway 313, and it's on the right (north) side of the road.

Protection

Lots of cams;...3 or 4 each of the smaller cams, (1-2"). Large cams for the O W.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
  5.11a
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
  5.11a
This climb is fantastic; one of the best crack pitches near Moab, and could hold it's own at Indian Creek. I tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Greg Epperson tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Kyle Copeland took a couple of big drags from his camel cigarette, grabbed the rack, cranked into the lieback position, and SENT! Kyle, (once again), saved the day. We had a great time. This is an endurance climb that requires strength, stamima, technique, and a cool head. It's awesome. May 27, 2007
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
Take two 5 and 6 Camalots to make the top pitch feel more comfortable but it's doable with one apiece. Two each of smaller cams protected the first pitch just fine. A good cooler weather climb, you might expect a climb like this at the Creek. Oct 12, 2010
Wade Plafcan
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Wade Plafcan   Moab, UT
  5.11a
An awesome route! super close to moab and barely gets any traffic! we had shade till about 12:30. SO Good, next time ill warm up more...

First anchor is good with 2 pitons and option to back it up, the 2nd pitch anchor is terrible, 1 decent piton and an old gnarly bolt and hanger, we replaced the old tat with some cord and did 2 raps back down. The top anchor could definitely use some new bolts if someone wanted to climb this awesome route and replace them.

Pro: Doubles of 4,5,6 camalots were nice, first pitch has lots of .5 ish size and i like having 3 #1's. May 29, 2014
Gregory
Fort Collins
 
Gregory   Fort Collins
 
Great climb! 4x 0.75s and 4x 0.5 on the first pitch were useful. Nov 6, 2017
Nathanial
Boulder, CO
Nathanial   Boulder, CO
This thing full on fantastic. difficult for me at 11-. those with larger fingers MAY have an easier time. hard to say - excellent movement none the less!
P1 anchors back up with small red C3 size unit. good fabric on two drilled angles.
For the less bold like I .2, .3, 2x .4, 3x .5 4x .75, 4x 1, 2, 3
P2 anchors need work - see Wade's comment, I did not read this prior to getting on the route today...
A three piece spread of 4's from BD 3.5 to old 4. 3-4x 5's, 1-2x 6's, drilled angle, and a .75 or 1. Oct 24, 2018
Adam Fleming   Moab
New bolts and chain on both pitches! Thank you Joe Stern! Dec 2018. Jan 4, 2019