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Lair of the Capybara
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Random - Unsorted
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"Sapper", the tower being "The Pillbox" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ PG13 |
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Candy Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Class Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Elvis Memorial Corner T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Finish Line Tower- If You Ain't First, You're Last T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Joker, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lair of the Capybara T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Moab's Super Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Putterman's Frisbee : The Floridian Route T A0 PG13 |
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Quarantine Quintessence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunset Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ |
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Sweet Jane T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Unknown Tower – Four by Four Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | NM and PF 11/20 |
| Page Views: | 186 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Nik Mirhashemi on Nov 9, 2023 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is the analog crack to Ben Kiessel's "If You're Not First You're Last" on Finish Line Tower. You can see it clearly from the 313 Hwy. You're definitely not in Indian Creek but we had a blast on it!
P1: We climbed a shallow low angle fingers flake/corner to a zigzag big fingers splitter 5.11 to start, until you can step right to a ledge. From here you have to climb a left facing corner tiptoeing as times past some suspect blocks ~5.7PG-13 then clip a bolt and stem and face climb on the right until to reach a nice ledge and build an anchor with hand size gear.
P2: Climb up into the outrageous flared roof (#5 BD cam) and continue up steep splitter fists to another nice belay ledge with bolts 5.11
P3: Climbing a zigzag splitter at times through softer rock that alternates between fingers and hands and finish with a wild move to top out the tower 5.11
We put a bolted anchor on the summit. I felt like I was able to find some decent rock to put some big fat bolts into. Two raps with a 70m rope will get you to the ground.
Location
This is the analog crack to "If You're Not First You're Last" and the white rock scar is very visible from the Hwy. We thought it looked like a large rodent sitting on its hind legs viewed from the side. Hence the name and the rest of my life being sent capybara videos...Look for the fat fingers splitter to find the start.
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