Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Random - Unsorted

"Sapper", the tower being "The Pillbox" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ PG13
Candy Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Class Act T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elvis Memorial Corner T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finish Line Tower- If You Ain't First, You're Last T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Joker, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Putterman's Frisbee : The Floridian Route T A0 PG13
Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunset Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sweet Jane T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Samy Jr., Matty P, Willy P, Beny K, spring 2011
Page Views: 297 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bill Grasse on May 30, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:
There appears to be many different options on pitch one, but the ultimate goal is to get on the big ledge about 50-60 feet up. All options seemed pretty loose. We climbed a line a little to the left, the second half of which was walking up a sandy ramp in a chimney. Two bolt belay. 5.7 70'.

(Note: The anchor on top of pitch 1 was there before us. There was no anchor on top of the tower.)

Pitch 2:
Climb the obvious splitter (C1 or 5.12-). After the crux in the first 30' the difficulty eases but the quality of rock diminishes. Continue to the top. 190'.

Rappel the route.

Location

This tower sits to the Northwest of the junction of Hwys 313 and 191. At the corner of the obvious cliff band sits the tower, with a splitter running up its Southeast face. This tower only reveals its self if you drive north of the junction on 191 and look back.

Protection

The second pitch is long. Desert standard rack, extras in .4-3 camalots. Two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

Nate Sydnor
Moab
 
Nate Sydnor   Moab
 
The anchor noted by the first ascensionist was placed by Jay Smith I believe. He mentioned this route a few weeks back as one that he found, but never climbed, making note that the splitter was unmistakable. I would be psyched to know who did the FFA. He sent us out there to free it, but we were beaten to the punch! Although not in the best quality rock, the crack is remarkable; a single continuous line to the top. Challenging, Indian Creek-style climbing in the beginning gives way to an epic journey up thin hands and hands, with one more challenging boulder problem in the middle. Joe's gear beta will be spot on for most. Classic desert tower experience! Oct 15, 2016
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.12- C1
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.12- C1
A plaque at the base indicates that this has been freed at 12-. I did a hangdog free lead and my partner Nate freed it clean on TR, confirming the grade.

Rack: 4-5 sets of cams from .5-3, with 1-2 orange metolius and 1-2 old 3.5 cams.

Awesome splitter...for choss. Oct 6, 2016
Climbed this Nov 2014. Notes:
1. For aiding, the rack is huge! Many, many cams from fingers (about first 30 feet or so) to ring-lock size to tight hands to hands to rattly hands and eventually fists, 180 feet up.

2. This may go free. There are a couple spots with hands-off rests that could be used to break up this monster pitch into 2 or 3 shorter pitches (or to stop and haul up more gear).

3. The rock is basically sound and yet threw a bunch of loose flakes/holds off. In particular entering the wide pod/slot feature 2/3 of the way up, the entire right side had recently exfoliated into a delicate detached flake, 6 feet tall, just sorta teetering there. Broke the thinner top half into manageable pieces for hucking out from the cliff. Rest is fatter, sort of attached and we left it be. It would be easy to pry off. Belayer is about 100 feet below.

4. Nice find you guys! Quite the splitter! Nov 13, 2014
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Nicely done Billiam. Jun 2, 2011