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Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 4
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.564, -109.54235 |
| FA: | Samy Jr., Matty P, Willy P, Beny K, spring 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,388 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Grasse on May 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Pitch 1:
There appears to be many different options on pitch one, but the ultimate goal is to get on the big ledge about 50-60 feet up. All options seemed pretty loose. We climbed a line a little to the left, the second half of which was walking up a sandy ramp in a chimney. Two bolt belay. 5.7 70'.
(Note: The anchor on top of pitch 1 was there before us. There was no anchor on top of the tower.)
Pitch 2:
Climb the obvious splitter (C1 or 5.12-). After the crux in the first 30' the difficulty eases but the quality of rock diminishes. Continue to the top. 190'.
Rappel the route.
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