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Unknown Tower – Four by Four Fire
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1
Avg: 1.2 from 5
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Unknown Tower – Four by Four Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Wolfe, Marsters |
| Page Views: | 852 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Sep 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a great, short tower with practically zero approach. If you have an hour or two to kill, this is an ideal choice. Even though this route is southwest facing, the route is shaded all day.
I didn't notice the other route up the tower until we summited the tower and found a single rappel bolt (rusted pins are very hard to spot from the ground). I would have probably attempted the other route first and thus the unknown tower name. That other route begins on the southeast side of the tower and veers to east face. It also appears someone attempted a thin aid line on the east face but bailed and took their bolt hanger (noticed on the rappel). History and names would be interesting.
Four by Four Fire begins on the southwest side of the tower between the wall and the tower. Aid through two bolts to a roof. Clean aid through the roof and then climb easy but run-out face (5.6) to the top. Rappel 80 feet northeast down the tower – now a 2 bolt anchor.
I didn't notice the other route up the tower until we summited the tower and found a single rappel bolt (rusted pins are very hard to spot from the ground). I would have probably attempted the other route first and thus the unknown tower name. That other route begins on the southeast side of the tower and veers to east face. It also appears someone attempted a thin aid line on the east face but bailed and took their bolt hanger (noticed on the rappel). History and names would be interesting.
Four by Four Fire begins on the southwest side of the tower between the wall and the tower. Aid through two bolts to a roof. Clean aid through the roof and then climb easy but run-out face (5.6) to the top. Rappel 80 feet northeast down the tower – now a 2 bolt anchor.
Location
From the US191 & UT313 intersection (same road used for Canyonlands), drive 2.3 miles southwest on UT313 to a BLM gate on the left side (south) side of the road. If you have 2WD, park here. With 4WD, continue another ~0.5 mile up the sandy road/wash until the tower is visible on the left side of the wash. Another alternative approach for 2WD is to park 2.6 miles up UT313 and hike less than a quarter mile south-southeast to the tower (harder to spot from UT313). Tower location 38.6469, -109.7216.
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