Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Sam Lightner, Jr.|
|Page Views:||1,824 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 13, 2010|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The climb is worthy for the first pitch and the fact that it is an easy, iconic tick. I got lots of "honks" while climbing it. The views are great. However, the upper pitches are not memorable.
P1 Down and right of the tower is a chimney with fun climbing. There is a hand crack in the back of it, but the climbing is much like that you might find in Thailand... seriously. There is some loose rock, but by and large it is interesting rock and fun climbing. A #6 friend will protect the crux (top). A #4 camelot will protect it too, but further below and thus a dangerous fall would be the potential. Top out to the right side and traverse around and to the left to find a chain anchor in huecos (a tree is also there on the right). 5.8
P2 Ascend up through huecos towards the tower, then a hard right around an awkward, unprotected bulge. It's ugly. An easier line is likely further right on slabs that have no pro. 5.7
P3 From the notch climb up on loose rock about 25 feet to get in any size of cam. From there, it is jiggery pokery with some bolts (4) and some placements. You will want a couple of hand pieces. A few free moves, and you're on top. This pitch will likely go free at a loose 5.10, but I was alone and thus aided up much of it.