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Routes in Random - Unsorted

"Sapper", the tower being "The Pillbox" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ PG13
Candy Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Class Act T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elvis Memorial Corner T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finish Line Tower- If You Ain't First, You're Last T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Joker, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Putterman's Frisbee : The Floridian Route T A0 PG13
Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunset Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sweet Jane T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sam Lightner, Jr.
Page Views: 1,387 total, 15/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 13, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Immediately after you turn onto 313 en route to Canyonlands N.P., you will notice a tower on the south side of the road. Virtually every climber driving this route has said, "I wonder who did that?" I was in that group until today when I went to look and see if anyone had been there. Apparently, none had. No pin scars, no anchors, no knowledge with my in-tune buddies.

The climb is worthy for the first pitch and the fact that it is an easy, iconic tick. I got lots of "honks" while climbing it. The views are great. However, the upper pitches are not memorable.

P1 Down and right of the tower is a chimney with fun climbing. There is a hand crack in the back of it, but the climbing is much like that you might find in Thailand... seriously. There is some loose rock, but by and large it is interesting rock and fun climbing. A #6 friend will protect the crux (top). A #4 camelot will protect it too, but further below and thus a dangerous fall would be the potential. Top out to the right side and traverse around and to the left to find a chain anchor in huecos (a tree is also there on the right). 5.8

P2 Ascend up through huecos towards the tower, then a hard right around an awkward, unprotected bulge. It's ugly. An easier line is likely further right on slabs that have no pro. 5.7

P3 From the notch climb up on loose rock about 25 feet to get in any size of cam. From there, it is jiggery pokery with some bolts (4) and some placements. You will want a couple of hand pieces. A few free moves, and you're on top. This pitch will likely go free at a loose 5.10, but I was alone and thus aided up much of it.

Location

A couple miles down 313 on the left.

Protection

I use Friends. One set, 1-6, would get you by. You could even leave the 5 behind... not the 6. You need that at the top of pitch one. Bring slings for that pitch for tie-offs and rope drag. The second pitch could be easier to the right of where I went, but you will need to solo the slab.. it's not hard, but it is unprotectable. My way was protectable, but really friggin' awkward.
It's possible to hike to the start of pitch 3. Start a mile west, hike into a bay, friction up a slab, across the top, find the hidden scramble descent to the big ledge. Long approach, but once at the tower, fun, fast pitch with excellent rock to a cool summit. Used one set cams to 4-inch, with doubles of 1.5 inch (for the belay) and 3-inch. May 10, 2014
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
 
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
 
Brad Brandewie, Matt Pickren, and I went back and re did this today. Matt managed to free the last pitch at 12-. Brad managed to wiggle through the chimney without doing the armbar move... he had to take off his harness to do it, but one has to give him credit for going so far to avoid a harder move. If you do the move, the one protected by the #6 at the top of pitch 1, its 5.9. The last moves of the last pitch are 12a-ish. Back cleaning the only piece you get in (in the bedding seam) on pitch 2 is a good idea.
Good job Matt... and Brad. May 16, 2010