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Routes in First Sella Tower

Delenda Carthago T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Normal Route (South-East Side) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Steger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tissi Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trenker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 590 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Luis Trenker, Hans Pescota. 1913
Page Views: 1,174 total, 9/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route ascends a large groove on the south-west corner of the tower.

Pitch 1 - After scrambling up some rock steps, climb up the prominent corner/groove to the right of the south face. (40m)

Pitch 2 - The "Trenker Crack". Stem up the polished corner with a wide crack/chimney in it. (40m)

Pitch 3 - More easy climbing up the corner system. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Follow the broken crack up to the end of the corner. (30m)

Pitch 5 - Traverse right out of the corner system to the base of a chimney. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb up the chimney to the top of the formation. (40m)

Descent - Climb down into the notch between First and Second Sella Towers. Descend some well marked grooves. Then head down and right to a path that returns to Sella Pass.

Location

The route climbs the south-west corner of First Sella Tower. Start just to the right of the large south face.

Protection

There are some pins on the route. Also bring a rack of nuts and some slings.
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.7+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.7+
Great first route in the Dolomites Oct 17, 2012
Ben Lepesant  
 
that's true. my first dolomites route. the first ascent leader was as famous movie-maker. Mar 21, 2008
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
The crack on pitch two is absolutely the slipperiest piece of rock I have ever touched. It is polished to a high gloss from nearly 100 years of ascents. Feels like church marble. Jan 29, 2008