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Routes in First Sella Tower

Delenda Carthago T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Normal Route (South-East Side) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Steger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tissi Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trenker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 590 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Luis Trenker, Hans Pescota. 1913
Page Views: 1,186 total · 9/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route ascends a large groove on the south-west corner of the tower.

Pitch 1 - After scrambling up some rock steps, climb up the prominent corner/groove to the right of the south face. (40m)

Pitch 2 - The "Trenker Crack". Stem up the polished corner with a wide crack/chimney in it. (40m)

Pitch 3 - More easy climbing up the corner system. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Follow the broken crack up to the end of the corner. (30m)

Pitch 5 - Traverse right out of the corner system to the base of a chimney. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb up the chimney to the top of the formation. (40m)

Descent - Climb down into the notch between First and Second Sella Towers. Descend some well marked grooves. Then head down and right to a path that returns to Sella Pass.

Location

The route climbs the south-west corner of First Sella Tower. Start just to the right of the large south face.

Protection

There are some pins on the route. Also bring a rack of nuts and some slings.
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
The crack on pitch two is absolutely the slipperiest piece of rock I have ever touched. It is polished to a high gloss from nearly 100 years of ascents. Feels like church marble. Jan 29, 2008
Ben Lepesant  
 
that's true. my first dolomites route. the first ascent leader was as famous movie-maker. Mar 21, 2008
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.7+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.7+
Great first route in the Dolomites Oct 17, 2012

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