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Routes in (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall

Black is Beautiful T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing on Stones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Rider Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forever Jung S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopper's Hangover S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Klein's Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negra Bonita (Black Beauty) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinky Finger T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tijerina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Utopian Vistas (var.) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Howard & Joel Tinl
Page Views: 4,297 total · 33/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on May 22, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb left through large roof on pinned blocks and follow into shallow overhanging corner. Continue straight up the right side of the roof. Crux as you climb onto thin arete above corner. Athletic moves and nice exposure bring you to the anchor.

Arise Alianza you have nothing to lose but your chains... Reies López Tijerina led a struggle in the 1960s and 1970s to restore New Mexican land grants to the descendants of their Spanish colonial and Mexican owners.

Location

Immediately left of Hopper's Hangover

Protection

10 bolts to 2 chain anchor. Can use gear in finger crack and pockets above...I would not trust blocks and flakes however.

Photos

Trevor H
Taos, NM
 
Trevor H   Taos, NM
 
While it's all bolted, trad feel for the first 35% of the climb, then changes to a sport feel. Sustained 5.9. Good climb, good holds. Use a sling on the second bolt to reduce rope drag and wear as it pulls up and over the roof(ish). If you belay directly under the start, you can't see you partner climb past the 3rd bolt. For TR, If you drop down and to the left to the base of Forever Jung to belay, you get a clear view of the entire route. Nov 13, 2016
Varun Singh
Providence, RI
  5.9
Varun Singh   Providence, RI
  5.9
Not sure about the broken flake, but this was still a great and fun route Sep 7, 2015
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
This still felt 5.9 to me, very fun moves the whole way. May 22, 2011
Mike Howard    
 
Bummer. When putting it up, I fished out several pinned blocks from that corner but others could have come loose. Basalt consistency is so hard to predict sometimes. One reason why we bolted next to questionable placements is because we have all seen these features crumble or pop under load. I can still imagine there are other ways through given the various other holds. What would you rate it now? Nov 2, 2009
I think that a vital piece of Tijerina broke off. It seems to me a chocked flake adjacent to the second bolt broke. I think I found the suspect piece on the ground near the belay area. Going through the roof is definitely not a 5.9 move any more. Can anybody confirm? Nov 2, 2009
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Nice 5.9 with sustained climbing and quality moves. Oct 11, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
This and Klein's Corner are terrific warm-ups on quality basalt. Feb 8, 2009
Mike Howard    
 
In 1967 Alianza Federal de Pueblos Libres, a Chicano group led by Reis Tijerina, seized the county courthouse in Tierra Amarilla, NM, and freed 11 prisoners as part of a movement claiming land granted their ancestors by Spain. Tijerina was arrested for kidnapping and assault, but he was acquitted after presenting his own defense in court. Later he served over 2 years in prison for burning a U.S. Forest Service sign. May 22, 2007

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