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Routes in (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall

Black is Beautiful T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing on Stones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Rider Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forever Jung S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopper's Hangover S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Klein's Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negra Bonita (Black Beauty) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinky Finger T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tijerina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Utopian Vistas (var.) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Howard & Jay Foley
Page Views: 697 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on May 1, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Same start as Utopian Vistas but this variation finishes with upper off-width trad crack to chain anchors. Bouldery start up to shallow corner (Left facing). Crux is sustained upper section of corner from 4th to 7th bolt. "Stinky Finger" was Lady Brett's nickname for D.H.Lawrence. Rumor has it that Frieda uncovered his infidelity by this olfactory clue.

Location

Just left of Easy Rider.

Protection

7 bolts to trad crack (One gold and one (or two) blue Camalots for protection).

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
A #4 cam is a little better than a #3, but both work. Don't get scared off of this just because it's a 5.11 mixed climb... The twenty feet of trad are only 5.8. The climbing on the arete and in the corner is stellar! I can't usually onsight 11- so I thought it was a little soft at the grade. Maybe I just got lucky?

Definitely a more natural finish than the eponymous Utopian Vistas route (but that finish has the upside of being able to set up the classic Hopper's Hangover for toprope). Feb 7, 2009

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