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Routes in (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall

Black is Beautiful T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing on Stones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Rider Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forever Jung S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopper's Hangover S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Klein's Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negra Bonita (Black Beauty) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinky Finger T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tijerina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Utopian Vistas (var.) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Howard & Jay Foley & Joel Tinl
Page Views: 948 total, 7/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on May 1, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Bouldery start up to shallow corner (small left facing). Traverse after 4th or 7th bolt 5.9) to the bolted arete. A longer draw may lessen rope drag at this bolt. Finish directly on the arete. Worthy variation.

Good option if you have no SLCDs to finish Stinky Finger.

Location

Start just left of Easy Rider crack on bulge.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchor
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.

If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.

The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be on. It appears as though it will be much harder than it is. Fun stuff. Feb 8, 2009