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Routes in (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall

Black is Beautiful T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing on Stones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Rider Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forever Jung S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopper's Hangover S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Klein's Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negra Bonita (Black Beauty) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinky Finger T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tijerina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Utopian Vistas (var.) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Howard and Joel Tinl
Page Views: 1,378 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb into large slot with rubble at base, stem onto high step and up under roofs.

Location

Immediately left of Klein's Corner

Protection

Bolts to chain anchor. Might supplement with .75 to 1 inch cam at upper roof.

Photos

Trevor H
Taos, NM
 
Trevor H   Taos, NM
 
Sustained 5.8+, with two 5.9 'get in your head' type moves. We didn't use pro under the roof, and that was one of those 'get in your head' type moves getting to the next bolt. Wherever there weren't hand holds, there were always places to bump your feet to get to the next hand hold. Good route. Nov 13, 2016
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
I agree it seemed harder than the 5.9 to the right. A little headier too. Fun though, loved the stemming. May 20, 2013
Mike Howard    
 
Thanks Larry, glad you enjoyed UV. Sounds like 5.9 is the appropriate rating from the consensus here. Hard to tell after I had toproped it a few times getting it ready. I don't remember the bolt spacing being too far there, but a cam could be nice. Do you recall the size you thought worked best? Oct 12, 2009
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Dave Barlow and myself climbed this today. We both feel its a 5.9. We both put a cam (either red or yellow alien will work) in crack under roof in the middle of the climb. We liked this one. Varied moves and makes you think some. Oct 11, 2009