Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Joel Tinl & Mike Howard
Page Views: 1,780 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on May 25, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the same right facing corner as Tijerina and then move left after the fourth bolt (long runner). Climb the dihedral and make crux moves through the roof. Excellent rock, continuous moves. Rick Klein was one of the founders of the New Buffalo Commune and the back-to-the-land movement in 1960s Taos and now is a fixture in the Jenny Vincent Trio.

Location

Utopia...Left of Hopper's Hangover

Protection

9 bolts and chain anchor

Photos

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Mike Howard

  5.9
Mike Howard    
  5.9
Lead on gear 6/19/11. 5.9 R without bolts using tricky small pocket horizontals and a few hollow blocks. Needed the 5th bolt to protect traverse...if not would be a serious fall. A few Runners useful for rope drag. Not recommended for 5.9 leader. Jun 20, 2011