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Routes in Gargoyle Wall
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A Question Of Faith T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Angry Elf on a Shelf T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big Neon Glitter T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cloister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Confession T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ |
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Gargoyle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mirabilis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spineless T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squid Inc. T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.57467, -111.76243 |
| FA: | The Smoots |
| Page Views: | 2,031 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Apr 21, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Great nailing up a small diagonal crack! This route is a must for the aid climber trying to break into the nailing game. I only climbed the first pitch, and neglected the nice looking 5.8 crack above. Originally rated A4, but has been done enough to enable it to be done safely. The first pitch anchors is an ancient bolt and some slung chicken heads, you'll want to back it up with cams and or more webbing.
Edit: The second pitch follows up the hand crack to some obnoxious bushes followed by a tricky fist sized bulge, and a short off-width or squeeze chimney to the top. From the top you can rappel off bolts 15 feet to the east out on the ridge down to Gargoyles anchors. The whole crack is a bit gritty, and will probably not clean up due to the infrequency of ascents.
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