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Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Big Neon Glitter T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Confession T A1+
Gargoyle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Aid
FA: The Smoots
Page Views: 1,061 total · 8/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Great nailing up a small diagonalling crack! This route is a must for the aid climber trying to break into the nailing game. I only climbed the first pitch, and neglected the nice looking 5.8 crack above. Originally rated A4, but has been done enough to enable it to be done safely. If you have done the whole route, please edit this with better information.

Location

Up the Fin Gulley.

Protection

A free rack with pitons.

Photos

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Bill Bones  
 
This is a great route to learn some pin craft. May 10, 2007
I suspect with the scars, though, it is also presently an excellent candidate for the hard boys and girls to get after. 5.13?, ya, probably. I bet this one is going down soon. Jul 12, 2008
bsmoot  
I think the original aid rating should have been more like A3, given the comparison to Tin Man. Aid ratings were also different then. Although I haven't been on this route since '82 the A1+ rating seems a bit stout. Jul 30, 2008
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  A2
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  A2
I climbed this solo in 1985 when it was rated "A4" - no chance of that rating. It did have some great thin nailing with tied off pins and maybe some RURPs if I recall, but there was no risk of a big fall. Not sure how it would be rated now with tiny brass and microcams. Regardless it is a really good training route right here in LCC if you want to get ready for a big nail-up in the Valley or some other granite wall. Jan 11, 2016

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