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Routes in Gargoyle Wall
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A Question Of Faith T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Angry Elf on a Shelf T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big Neon Glitter T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cloister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Confession T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ |
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Gargoyle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mirabilis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spineless T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squid Inc. T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57467, -111.76243 |
| FA: | Shingo Ohkawa, Tyler Gregory 2011 |
| Page Views: | 189 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | DrippySnot Peggs on Jan 3, 2026 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
At the very top of Gargoyle gully these delightfully flakey splitters have a unique flavor. From butterflies to finger locks to chicken heads and cave crawling this route does not disappoint. Good hangout spot on the top!
Walk south east into the gully to descend. Then two raps to your pack, one rappell of a tree, then off the top anchor on Squid Inc. 70m is must.
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